Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
